Iriarte Jatetxea, located at Jose Mª Goikoetxea street, 34, in Berrobi, occupies the ground floor of an old farmhouse that previously served as a feed warehouse, a small wine cellar, and a tavern. The building, typical of rural homes, also housed stables.
Félix Belaunzaran, the restaurant's chef, trained at the Ategorrieta cooking school and later worked in Barcelona and at the Frontón de Tolosa with Roberto Ruiz. Armed with this experience, at 26, he transformed the space into a restaurant with a new ambition. Since then, Iriarte has progressed steadily, preserving the house's heritage.
Among the starters, the piquillo peppers with ventresca and citrus roe offer a measured intensity. Peas and broad beans are presented with artisanal care. Mushrooms appear in various forms, providing depth through creams and textures, always reflecting a forest product perspective.
The grill is a central element of the restaurant. Grilled squid with caramelized onion evokes a well-understood classicism. However, the fish offerings gain more prominence, allowing diners to select their piece before it is grilled.
The 'txangurro a la donostiarra' follows a similar line, prepared with academic precision in its well-poached vegetables and deep flavor base, embodying recipes that retain their relevance without needing reinvention.
Iriarte also maintains a close connection with the Usarre livestock farm, a key identity marker for the project. They raise hybrid Dalan breed pigs, a venture started by Félix's father and now managed by his brother. This generational continuity ensures the product reaches the restaurant with its own narrative, tied to the environment where the project grew.
From this farm come the Usarre suckling pigs, fed exclusively on mother's milk and prepared with precise culinary attention. The roasted suckling pig becomes a dish that encapsulates Iriarte: its own product, memory, oven, time, and the exact point where the meat retains juiciness and the skin achieves a clean crispness.
Following this philosophy, offal is also explored, transforming less-used parts into dishes with distinct identities. Tongues, cheeks, and all their intricacies are presented for the delight of lovers of this culinary tradition.
Iriarte is located in a small town near Tolosa, retaining a sense of closeness. Behind it lies a way of life, a market, a grill, recognizable products, and cuisine that feels comfortable in its own language. It is a restaurant that continues to build its story from product, fire, and the memory of a family home.
